Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
